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The Daintree region of North Queensland runs from just south of the Daintree River to a little north of Cape Tribulation, at about the settlement of Ayton. Often "the Daintree rainforest" is used to refer to all rainforest in the Cairns region, due in part to the Daintree National Park extending south to Mossman, but the Daintree River pretty much is the cut-off line.

More than anything else the Daintree is home to arguably the oldest rainforests in the world, as certainly the oldest living species of rainforest flowering plants only exist there. However, like all rainforest around the world there has been much ebbing and flowing of actual coverage, with at times only small refuges remaining during periods of particular dryness, which spread out once rainfall increases. However, these ancient (100 million+ years) species exist now because some parts have always been in existence.

Today there is only a narrow strip of rainforest in mainland Australia, in small discrete segments, from temperate forests in eastern Victoria to relatively simple forest on upper Cape York Peninsula. Every now and again, such as the Lamington area and inland from Mackay, both in Queensland, upland rainforest occurs as small isolated patches. Australia's most complex rainforest, boasting upwards of 100 tree species alone per hectare (2 1/4 acres), occurs on the elevated Atherton Tablelands and the lowlands and hinterland of the Daintree.

However, rainforest is not the only attraction of the Daintree region. Some of North Queensland's best beaches are found here, as are many rare birds and mammals, and for many visitors the first opportunity to get close to wild crocodiles. Once a wild and difficult place to access, the beaches and forest is now home to a range of accommodation, from cozy B&Bs to backpackers lodges to 4-star resorts complete with exceptional and world-rated spas. Our favorite is Silky Oaks Lodge, set on the banks of the Mossman River, secluded and private. Your cabin, either looking out over the river, or nestled in the forest, comes complete with your own hammock for swaying in the tropical breeze. The award-winning restaurant perches out over the river, and is one of Australia's most beautiful places to dine. You can explore the local rainforest, take professionally guided nature tours, or mix with the friendly local wallabies on the grounds. The Healing Waters Spa at the Lodge uses all Australian natural spa care products from Sodashi and Li'Tya; Li'Tya products draw on the ancient knowledge of the Aboriginal people to nurture and heal.

There's even camping. Interests including birding, nature hikes, 4WD excitement, visits to the Great Barrier Reef, forest hiking, luxury relaxation, beach time, and pretty much most others can be satisfied somewhere in the Daintree.

Daintree Township is a small village, with B&Bs such as Red Mill House, quiet retreat-style homestays and a caravan park on the river. Most people visiting either cross the River south of the town, or take one of the many riverboat tours to see saltwater crocodiles and other wildlife. The Daintree River, though short, runs from the rainforest through mangroves into the Coral Sea, and and so has a variety of habitats. Most of the boat tours depart from either along the river between the turn-off to the ferry crossing, or at the ferry crossing itself. Crocodiles, some over 14ft long, are reliably seen, especially in the cooler months when they spend more time sunning. In the wet season, especially on sunny days, sightings are better early morning and late afternoon. During the hottest part of the day crocs will rest at the bottom of the river, where it's cooler.

Some tours, such as the birding tour operated just after dawn by Chris Dahlberg, and the hourly tours by the Daintree Tour Centre emphasize more than just the crocs, especially good for those interested in the rainforest-mangrove ecosystem and interplay.

Once you cross the Daintree River, via a short car ferry ride (but there's sometimes a lengthy wait), a single road takes you 40 miles north to Cape Tribulation. Along the way there is a variety of accommodation, beaches, fruit stall and farms, galleries, rainforest walks and a fair bit more. Near the Cape itself (named by Captain Cook due to his tribulations caused by running aground on the Reef nearby) is a Rainforest Discovery Centre, complete with canopy tower and walkway. At the Cape itself is a self-guided boardwalk through rainforest and mangrove out to the beach. If yo have a 4WD suitable vehicle - you have to ford a river at the right tide time -you can continue north all the way to Cooktown, but the preferred, all-weather road is inland via Mareeba and Mt Carbine.

Most people see the Daintree and Cape Tribulation in a long day-trip from Cairns or Port Douglas, but if you have the time it's worth spending a few days here, in one of Australia's most beautiful areas.